How to prepare raw kale so it’s tender, not tough

Raw dishes hide nothing, so take a minute to sort the leaves. Firm, springy leaves with a fresh, green smell are ready for the bowl. Set aside any that are yellowing, have wet or slimy patches or dark mushy spots, or smell sour. Slightly limp but otherwise healthy leaves can still go into a soup — they just won’t make a crisp salad. Discard anything moldy; when in doubt, throw it out. Our inspection checklist shows what to look for.

Wash your hands, then rinse the leaves under clean, cool running water, rubbing them gently and opening the curls where soil can hide. Do this just before preparing, not before storing: extra moisture in the fridge speeds spoilage.

Drying is the step most people skip, and raw kale punishes it. Water trapped in the ruffles dilutes the dressing and stops the oil from coating the leaves. A salad spinner is ideal; otherwise roll the leaves loosely in a clean kitchen towel. Full method: how to wash kale.

1. 1

   Pinch and pull

   Hold the stem at its base with one hand. With the other, pinch the leaf where it meets the stem and pull firmly toward the tip; the leaf tears away in one or two pieces.

2. 2

   Or use a knife

   Fold the leaf in half along the stem and slice alongside it. Useful for large, stiff leaves.

3. 3

   Keep the stems

   Collect the stems in a covered container in the fridge and use them soon: finely chopped, they cook into soups, stir-fries, lentils or pesto. See what to do with kale stems.

Thin stems near the tip of young leaves are tender enough to eat raw; slice them very finely if you like extra crunch.

A sharp knife matters: a dull blade crushes and bruises the leaves. Use a clean board, and keep raw vegetables away from boards used for raw meat, poultry or fish.

1. 1

   Season the bowl

   Put the cut kale in a large bowl. For about 100 g of leaves, start with roughly 1 teaspoon of olive oil, a squeeze of lemon and a small pinch of salt.

2. 2

   Massage firmly

   With clean hands, squeeze and scrunch the leaves, as if kneading soft dough, for 1–3 minutes.

3. 3

   Watch for the change

   The leaves turn darker and glossier, shrink noticeably and feel silky rather than scratchy. Taste a piece: it should be tender with a gentle bite.

4. 4

   Stop in time

   Over-massaged kale turns limp and watery. Stop as soon as it is tender.

Why does it work? Pressure, salt and acid break down part of the leaf’s tough structure, and the oil coats every piece so the dressing clings. Massaging also softens kale’s bitter edge — see why kale tastes bitter.

Massaging a big batch? Work in two or three rounds so every leaf gets attention, and add the seasoning gradually: you can always add more lemon or salt at the end, but you can’t take it away.

• Acid: lemon juice, sumac or pomegranate molasses.
• Fat: olive oil, tahini, walnuts, feta or halloumi.
• Sweetness: pomegranate seeds, apple, dates or raisins.
• Crunch: toasted bread, nuts or seeds, added at the last moment.

Because massaged kale does not collapse, you can dress it a little before serving — handy for gatherings. Add juicy ingredients such as tomato close to serving so the salad doesn’t turn watery. Put leftovers back in the fridge within 2 hours and eat them soon.

Looking for ideas? Our round-up of the best kale salads explains which salad suits which occasion, and the step-by-step preparation guide walks through each technique.