Preparing kale without losing its texture

According to USDA reference data, 100 g of raw kale contains about 89.6 g of water. That water is what makes fresh leaves crisp, and losing it is what makes them tender, then limp, then soggy. Curly kale adds another factor: its ruffles trap water and oil — great for holding a dressing, terrible if the leaves go into a pan still wet.

1. 1

   Wash just before use

   Rinse under clean, cool running water, rubbing gently, as described in how to wash kale.

2. 2

   Spin

   Use a salad spinner in two or three batches rather than one overloaded basket.

3. 3

   Pat dry

   Lay the leaves on a clean towel and pat them, or roll them up gently, to catch water hidden in the curls.

4. 4

   Air-dry briefly for chips

   For chips, leave the leaves spread on the towel for a few minutes after patting; any moisture left becomes steam in the oven.

See also the drying step in our preparation guide.

Strip the leaves from the stems, tear them into bite-sized pieces and put them in a large bowl. Add a drizzle of olive oil, a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of salt, then squeeze and rub the leaves between your fingers. You’ll feel them relax and see them darken and shrink.

How to tell when to stop

• Done: darker green, noticeably reduced in volume, tender to bite but springy.
• Not yet: still pale, squeaky and stiff.
• Too far: dark, wet, flattened and bruised-looking, with liquid pooling in the bowl.

Salt timing matters. Salt draws water out of the leaves, which helps during massage — but a salad dressed and salted hours ahead will slowly go limp. Massaged kale holds up far better than lettuce, so you can dress it a little in advance, but add crunchy toppings such as toasted bread, nuts or pomegranate just before serving. Try it with our kale, lemon and olive oil salad, and see our massage tips.

1. 1

   Boil plenty of water

   Use a large pot and salt the water well. A big volume returns to the boil quickly when the kale goes in.

2. 2

   Blanch in batches

   Add the leaves for about 1–2 minutes, until bright green and just tender. Thick stems need longer — add them a couple of minutes earlier or blanch them separately.

3. 3

   Shock

   Lift the kale straight into a bowl of iced water to stop the cooking and set the color.

4. 4

   Squeeze

   Drain and squeeze firmly — blanched kale holds a surprising amount of water.

Blanched kale can be frozen at home for cooking — see kale storage and food safety — or chopped and finished in a hot pan with garlic just before serving.

• Stems first. Give thinly sliced stems a few minutes’ head start before the leaves.
• Don’t crowd. Add the leaves by the handful, letting each batch wilt before the next. A packed pan steams kale instead of searing it.
• A splash, not a flood. If the pan is dry and the leaves are still tough, add a tablespoon of water and toss — the brief steam finishes the job.
• Season at the end. Add lemon juice or vinegar off the heat. Acid added early dulls kale’s green to olive.
• Leave the lid off. A lid traps sulfur aromas; an open pan keeps the flavor clean.

Our garlic-lemon sautéed kale is the basic method; build on it with chilli, sumac or pine nuts.

Massage just enough oil into each leaf to coat it thinly — too much makes chips greasy and soft. Spread them out without overlapping, using two trays rather than one crowded one. Bake in a moderate oven, around 150 °C, for roughly 15–20 minutes, checking often from halfway and turning the tray. They’re ready when crisp and still green, with the edges only lightly browned.

Salt lightly, or after baking. Kale shrinks dramatically in the oven, so salt that looks right on raw leaves is too much on chips. The full method is in our crispy kale chips recipe. On roasted vegetable trays, add kale for the last few minutes so the edges crisp without burning, as in kale and quinoa with roasted vegetables.

• Color: bright green has turned olive or grey.
• Smell: a strong, cabbage-like sulfur smell fills the kitchen.
• Texture: the leaves are mushy and stringy rather than silky with some bite.
• Water: liquid pools at the bottom of the pan or bowl.

The exception is a long-simmered stew or soup, where soft kale is the goal — even there, add the leaves for the last part of the cooking rather than at the start. For more on flavor, read why kale tastes bitter and the cooking section of our preparation guide.